Big Bend National Park
Texas
November 2018
The Boquillas Canyon Trail begins at the cul-de-sac of a spur road and climbs up from the parking lot to the top of a cliff overlooking the Rio Grande. The Big River, defining the border between Mexico and the United States, is narrow and unimpressive at this spot. Across the water, a portly dark-skinned gentleman sits in a lounge chair. He might be fishing. His dog and cat slowly circle the area and lie down. A rowboat is tied up nearby.
Hiking down the hill, we come upon a rock acting as a display stand. Numerous delicate glass sculptures are arranged here, some cactus, a few roadrunners, even a scorpion or two, each with a price tag. Smooth stones are painted “Mexico” and beaded wristbands read “I LOVE MEXICO.” A tin can is partially filled with folding dollars holds a rock on top, in case the wind rises.
My assumption is this: The fisherman, our portly dark-skinned gentleman, quietly rows over to the United States in the morning, sets up his display and rows back to Mexico to fish for his dinner. We hikers come along, are enthralled by his craft and, honoring his trust, place money into the can for whatever we choose to take with us. In the evening, the Mexican gentleman comes back to collect his dinero.
And they tell us that this is the great danger at the border of our two countries.